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Russian Lip Technique vs. Classic Filler: The Deep Dive

Updated: 6 days ago

By: The Luxe Aesthetics Academy Editorial Team


Medically Reviewed by: Narmin Khairadast (Lead Injector)


If you’ve been researching lip augmentations lately, you’ve likely come across the term "Russian Lips." It has become a viral sensation, praised for creating a doll-like, lifted look without the dreaded "side-profile projection" (the duck look).


But how does it actually differ from the classic filler techniques we’ve used for decades? At Luxe Aesthetic Loft, we believe that the best results come from choosing the right technique for your specific anatomy. Let’s dive into the technical differences between Russian and Classic lip fillers.


Learn more with our Luxe Aesthetics Loft guide to lip fillers.


The Classic Technique: Volume and Projection

The "Classic" approach is what most people think of when they imagine lip injections.

  • The Technique: Filler is typically injected horizontally into the body of the lip. The injector often uses a "linear threading" method, where the product is placed along the length of the lip to add volume.

  • The Goal: Overall plumpness, soft edges, and horizontal projection.

  • The Look: Classic filler is excellent for restoring lost volume and creating a juicy, hydrated appearance. However, if overdone, it can lead to "ducking" because the filler pushes the lip outward rather than upward.


The Russian Technique: Height and Lift

Inspired by the aesthetic of Russian nesting dolls, this technique has revolutionized how we shape the mouth.

  • The Technique: This is a vertical injection technique. Instead of starting from the corners of the mouth, the injector starts at the base of the lip and injects tiny droplets of filler vertically toward the lip border.

  • The Goal: To "flip" the lip upward, increasing the vertical height of the pink tissue without adding thickness to the side profile.

  • The Look: It creates a flatter, wider, and more "lifted" appearance. It emphasizes the Cupid’s bow and provides a crisp, sharp border. It is the gold standard for those who want a visible change in shape rather than just "bigger" lips.


The Technical Comparison

Feature

Classic Technique

Russian Technique

Injection Direction

Horizontal (along the lip)

Vertical (base to border)

Result Focus

Plumpness & Hydration

Height & Flat Profile

Side Profile

Can project outward

Remains flat/natural

Procedure Time

15–30 minutes

45–60 minutes (more precise)

Trauma/Swelling

Minimal to Moderate

Higher (more injection points)


Is the Russian Technique Right for You?

While the Russian Lip look is stunning, it isn't for everyone.


You are a great candidate for Russian Lips if:

  • You have a "flat" upper lip or a long distance between your nose and your lip.

  • You want a dramatic, "doll-like" Cupid's bow.

  • You want height but hate the look of a projecting "side profile."


You may prefer Classic Filler if:

  • You want a very soft, subtle, and natural "refresh."

  • You are primarily concerned with vertical lip lines and dehydration.

  • You want a quicker procedure with potentially less bruising.


The "Luxe" Expert Note: The Blank Canvas

One critical thing to know about the Russian Technique: It works best on a "blank canvas." If you already have significant filler from a classic technique, the old filler can "block" the new vertical channels. At Luxe Aesthetic Loft, we sometimes recommend dissolving your old filler first. This allows us to start fresh and achieve that crisp, high-definition Russian lift that simply isn't possible when layering over old product.


Final Thoughts

At the end of the day, you don't need to choose your technique, that’s our job! During your consultation at our Langley clinic, we look at your tissue, your profile, and your goals to determine which "tool" in our kit will give you the most harmonious result.


Ready to find your perfect shape?



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